KA24/KA24ET/KA24DET FAQ

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KA24/KA24ET/KA24DET FAQ

Post  StryfeS13 on Tue Feb 01, 2011 2:37 pm

Keep the forums less cluttered. All KA24DET questions and concerns go here.
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Re: KA24/KA24ET/KA24DET FAQ

Post  StryfeS13 on Wed Feb 02, 2011 12:54 am

I guess I'll begin, since I have a built KA...

So you wanna go KA-T....

Here are some things to consider:

1. If you plan to have a reliable, high power setup, you WILL need a tune, and you SHOULD build the motor. 350WHP is the max i'd go on stock internals.
2. If you decide to build, you'll spend just as much if not more than you would on a full SR20 swap.
3. But if you do build, it'll pay off in the end. Torquey 4 banger, you want? Yes, you do.

Street Power...180RWHP - 235RWHP

-Stock engine
-Turbo manifold
-SR T25
-SR hot pipe and cold pipe
-SR downpipe
-Either 6:1 FMU @ 7LBS, or Maf/Injectors/Tune @ 12 PSI max
-Fun reliable street setup..

Getting more serious...250RWHP - 300RWHP

-Stock engine might be pushing it.
-Turbo manifold
-T28/T3T4/ETC
-Z32 MAF / 550CC Injectors
-ROM Tune or dyno tune, or AEM EMS, you get it
-Walbro 255LPH Fuel Pump
-Bigger FMIC is needed
-Etc

Now we're making power...300RWHP - 400RWHP

-Stock engine needs to be upgraded. Look into forged internals. Head work is still unnecessary but if done, will yield larger gains
-T3/T04E .50 Trim
-External Wastegate...(screamer?HELL YES)
-3 inch downpipe is a must
-Large core FMIC is needed
-Standalone would be better, but ROM tune will work
-740CC injectors or more
-MAF of your choice
-Wideband 02
-Walbro 255LPH fuel pump

Getting serious....400RWHP - 600RWHP

-Engine absolutely must be built. And it must be built RIGHT.
-T3/T61/SC61 or GT35R
-External wastegate. Period.
-Brand name blow off. No cheap shit here.
-Huge FMIC
-Downpipe must be 3"
-Exhaust must be 3"
-NO cat
-740CC - 1600CC injectors
-Standalone ECU
-Convert MAF to MAP
-Wideband 02
-Dyno tuning is a necessity for the reliability of having this much...power.
-Walbro 255LPH fuel pump


Other things worth mentioning while building a KA...

1. The top and second ring gaps must be file fit when you are going KA-T...I don't care if your manufacturer says they are already fit, check them anyway. Top ring gap should be .017, second should be .019.

2. You can remove the following off your intake manifold: Butterfly valves(if S13), EGR, Swirl control valve, IDLE AIR CONTROL valve, hard lines under the manifold, etc. If you actually look at the intake manifold and take your time you can really simplify it down to a stripped clean intake. If you decided to remove your idle air control valve, you can control idle with the throttle plate screw, which is located on the throttle body.

3. If you have a leak from your front cover, check and make sure that the front cover is for your KA. The S13/S14 covers are different.

4. S13/S14 valve covers are different.

5. S13/S14 Headgaskets are different.

6. If you have a leak where your front cover meets the headgasket, try putting some Hylomar in between where to cover contacts the headgasket. It will not leak anymore.

7. You can rewire your stock coil to put out more voltage.

8. Despite popular belief, KA-T's ARE NOT UNRELIABLE. It's not the motor that makes it unreliable, it's the user. Dumbfuck user = dumbfuck motor.

9. Make sure to rebuild your oil pump when you build your KA. You don't have to buy a new one for $200.00, you can rebuild it with OEM parts for only $53.00.

10. Make sure you get all of your lobe to shim clearances correct. Should be within the range of .013 to .016. If out of spec, you must put in either a larger or smaller shim according to your reading.

That's all I can think of for now.





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#7

Post  newrealm96 on Wed Feb 02, 2011 2:17 am

how do you rewire the coil to put out more voltage

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Re: KA24/KA24ET/KA24DET FAQ

Post  StryfeS13 on Wed Feb 02, 2011 2:45 am

Here's a link on how to rewire the ignition coil.
This can also solve issues of boost breakup/missing/hard starts/etc.

http://ka-t.org/s13_ignition_rewire.php
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Re: KA24/KA24ET/KA24DET FAQ

Post  newrealm96 on Wed Feb 02, 2011 3:27 am

dam thats for the s14, duh i should have figured lol sucks having an s14 with the internal coil.

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Re: KA24/KA24ET/KA24DET FAQ

Post  onevia drift on Wed Feb 02, 2011 9:13 am

The re-wire for an s13 is pretty close to the same. I'll se if i can find a s13 specific write-up this afternoon.
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Re: KA24/KA24ET/KA24DET FAQ

Post  newrealm96 on Wed Feb 02, 2011 10:51 am

i meant that was for the s13 lol my bad i have zenki s14

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Re: KA24/KA24ET/KA24DET FAQ

Post  Thrilla559 on Mon Feb 07, 2011 1:40 am

Now when you talk about lobe clearance I'll need to use a shim huh? Where could I get a set and for how much?
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Re: KA24/KA24ET/KA24DET FAQ

Post  StryfeS13 on Mon Feb 07, 2011 3:14 am

Thrilla559 wrote:Now when you talk about lobe clearance I'll need to use a shim huh? Where could I get a set and for how much?

To check and see if your clearances are within spec, you must check the gap between the cam lobe and shim, this is to be done with a feeler gauge...

If the clearance is out of spec, then yes, you will need a new shim to replace it with.

I think Jim Wolf sells them. If not try courtesynissan
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Re: KA24/KA24ET/KA24DET FAQ

Post  Thrilla559 on Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:12 pm

StryfeS13 wrote:
Thrilla559 wrote:Now when you talk about lobe clearance I'll need to use a shim huh? Where could I get a set and for how much?

To check and see if your clearances are within spec, you must check the gap between the cam lobe and shim, this is to be done with a feeler gauge...

If the clearance is out of spec, then yes, you will need a new shim to replace it with.

I think Jim Wolf sells them. If not try courtesynissan

Okay now I need to find my Haynes manual!! I can't remember the last time they were checked out anyways. I notice there is an annoying ticking sound so hopefully I can get it worked out. Thanx for your help!!
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Re: KA24/KA24ET/KA24DET FAQ

Post  RealSealS13 on Mon Feb 07, 2011 11:24 pm

Wow awesome write up! After seeing my friend's built up KA24DET I'm super excited. As for me I really wanna just stay N/A but it full internals,bolt-ons, and upgraded ecu. I want something reliable and responsive. I don't know too much about working on internals but I was doing some research and learned that Brian Crower makes parts for the KA24DE. I was thinking of picking up maybe a stage 2 cam with lightweight pulleys or go all out on a stage 3 while upgrading the valvesprings, retainers, and pistons (later on). I recently had my motor swapped with a s14 KA24DE with super low miles. I do alot of racing/drifting events so I'm thinking N/A would best suit my needs. Anyway other companies make parts for the dual cam? All i know so far of comapnies that make stuff for this eng are (BC, PDM, OBX, and some other custom shops)
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Re: KA24/KA24ET/KA24DET FAQ

Post  StryfeS13 on Tue Feb 08, 2011 2:19 am

RealSealS13 wrote:Wow awesome write up! After seeing my friend's built up KA24DET I'm super excited. As for me I really wanna just stay N/A but it full internals,bolt-ons, and upgraded ecu. I want something reliable and responsive. I don't know too much about working on internals but I was doing some research and learned that Brian Crower makes parts for the KA24DE. I was thinking of picking up maybe a stage 2 cam with lightweight pulleys or go all out on a stage 3 while upgrading the valvesprings, retainers, and pistons (later on). I recently had my motor swapped with a s14 KA24DE with super low miles. I do alot of racing/drifting events so I'm thinking N/A would best suit my needs. Anyway other companies make parts for the dual cam? All i know so far of comapnies that make stuff for this eng are (BC, PDM, OBX, and some other custom shops)

Bro, if you're going to do an N/A build..be prepared to spend TONS of money. The KA just doesn't make much power in the N/A form. There was a guy named "Greaser" that had it all, high compression pistons, cams, head work, ITB's, header, etc...only made 200WHP.

I have a fully built KA as well, however I knocked the compression down to 8.6:1 for boost...but stock KA's keep up with mine, and mine has forged internals, ported head, no emissions, no butterfly valves, no cat, 3" exhaust...etc etc etc. Of course if I rev mine up and let my ported head flow, I out run a stock KA, but it's still pointless lol. I'd say my car is a low 14 second car right now.

If I was going N/A I'd get a motor that responds well to basic bolt ons...like a VH45, VQ35, LSX, or even an N/A SR20DE with a VE head

If you need help building your motor, I've built several and know how to build them..onevia drift knows how to do it too.

As for people who make parts for KA's...

Pistons:
SUPERTECH
Mahle
JE
CP
WISECO

Rods:
EAGLE
Crower
Manley
etc

Other internal parts such as bearings, bolts, headstuds:
ARP(best bolts, period.)
ROCK
ACL (good shit)
Nissan (lol)

Valves, cams, springs
Crower
Supertech
Kelford (cams are the SHIT)
But to be honest headwork is NOT necessary if going KA-T...stock head is good till 700WHP +

Headgasket:
Stock or Fel-pro is all you need
Cometic MLS headgasket (metal, but might leak)

Emissions removal,etc:
No one makes parts for this, except EGR blockoff plates.
Removal is straight forward and easy

Pretty much there are a ton of companies that manufacture parts for the KA now. KA has the same aftermarket as SR almost.





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Re: KA24/KA24ET/KA24DET FAQ

Post  onevia drift on Sat Mar 19, 2011 3:19 pm

Stock headgasket, O-Ringed block.... DONE
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